Tuesday, January 1, 2008

My Los Angeles

Los Angeles is not my favorite city in the world, but it's my favorite city to live in. It's sunny, it's warm, it's young and it's simply wonderful, with surprises that await in every corner, just daring you to discover them. And yet, my city does not beckon you seductively like Venice or Paris, impress you with its monuments like Rome or London, or thrill you like New York or Tokyo. Instead, it glitters. If you are ready to open yourself and accept the challenge, it is a city to be savored and enjoyed and to come back to over and over again.

There is not one central place from which to see Los Angeles and not one word in which you can characterize its inhabitants. We have 17 million people from all over the world (and probably beyond that as well, judging from some of the clothes!), and there is something for every taste. The freeways here are like arteries connecting the main parts of the city, and each part has a very different function and character. I have lived here for many years and yet, I am still discovering new parts of town to enjoy, so this is by no means a comprehensive guide. It is simply a collection of the places I love, places beyond Disneyland or the Walk of Stars - places that speak to any of us who are willing to listen.

First, let me tell you the bad news: you will need a car to get around (public transport is notoriously slow) and you must factor this beast called "traffic" into your plans. As we say around here, it takes "about 20 minutes" to get anywhere, so get thee a map (or even better, a GPS) and don't be intimidated. The good news is that rental cars are cheap and it's very easy to get around as the city is laid out in grid format, and LA drivers are actually very nice. In fact, if you are coming from another large city, you will be quite surprised and annoyed about many drivers actually stopping at stop signs and letting pedestrians go. :)

The best way to see Los Angeles is in neighborhoods. You will not be able to see "the city" in one or two days, so if you only have a short time here, pick two or three neighborhoods that you think you will like and explore those. Our city is not about ancient monuments or "must do" lists, but rather, it is a place of relaxation, enjoyment, beauty and fun. Click on the below links to begin your journey [note: links are still a work in progress, please forgive their absence for now].

Santa Monica/Malibu
Venice/Culver City
Westwood/UCLA
Beverly Hills
Hollywood
Downtown
Los Feliz/Silverlake
Pasadena

Side Trips

FAQ

Is there anything to do in Los Angeles besides Disneyland and celebrity-spotting?
Yes, this sounds like a silly question, but you would be surprised at how many times the people I take around LA ask me this (are they familiar with this new invention we call 'guide books?'). With 17 million people here, you'd better believe we have pretty much everything you might ever want and some things you may not have thought of yet. We have more museums per capita than any other city in the world, an exploding food and music scene, huge parks and ocean vistas and fabulous shopping. Leave your prejudices and expectations at home and you will love it here as much as we do.

When is the best time to come to Los Angeles?
Well, you're in luck here because we have it pretty darn good all year round. July to October is particularly nice, though we have some very fine weather in April and May as well. June tends to be a little foggy and gloomy, especially around the ocean, and in November and February, nature likes to remind us that rain does exist (we don't like it).

How long should I stay?
Los Angeles is a "living" city, so it would take a while to really get the flavor of it, however, a week should give you a pretty good chance of enjoying some of the best we have to offer and maybe even take a drive up the coast to sample a few of the wineries in the vicinity.

What is the best neighborhood for me to stay in?
I would recommend either Santa Monica or West Hollywood. Both are beautiful and fairly centrally located to most of the places you would want to visit. Santa Monica is rather like a small town within a big city, so it's calmer, more relaxed, and most importantly, right next to the beautiful Pacific Ocean. West Hollywood is the paradise of the hip and the cool, with award-winning restaurants practically on every corner and more nightlife than you can fit in one visit, so if you like the hustle and bustle of a big city, pick a hotel around here. Downtown is also beginning to look interesting with its historic buildings, its cultural trademarks and the re-birth of its nightlife. Just be aware that it gets a little uncomfortable after dark and extended walking around is not recommended.

Can you tell me where to find celebrities?
Alas, no, I cannot. Mostly because I don't know myself and have not looked. While Hollywood is a big part of this city and we respect the hard work these people do to entertain the rest of the world (with dubious success, at times, it must be admitted), for the most part, we just leave them alone to do their stuff. Mostly everyone has an uncle or a cousin "in the industry," and the people you meet at parties will probably be writing screenplays, directing, or waiting for their big break, but celebrity spotting is just not what we do on a daily basis. If you really want to see someone famous, please ask the concierge at your hotel or look up blogs that specialize in that sort of thing.

What's the deal with tipping?
The prices in Los Angeles are relatively low (relative to another big city such as New York or Paris, that is), the service is relatively good and the salaries of the service people are not high, so the custom is to tip. 15% is generally the magic number and can be used as a standard in restaurants and when taking cabs (this tip will not be included in your bill). My first job was as a waitress and believe me, we appreciate these tips and try hard to earn them. Please note that for parties of 6 or more, there may be an 18% tip that is already included in your bill, so watch out for it. For valet parking, I generally tip $1-2 on top of the parking fee and $1 per drink at bars is usually acceptable. Don't tip the cute cops, though, or you might get in trouble. ;)

Are people in LA shallow and fake?
Just like in any other place, there are people who are shallow and fake. You can usually spot many of them right away by the loud air kisses and the smell of their hair products. There are also many people who are genuine, clever and very normal, so I guess it's just the luck of the draw which ones you will bump into. Mostly, though, you will find that people are simply nice. Many might smile at you while you are walking down the street and you will hear "excuse me" and "thank you" more than you might expect. This is not us being fake, this is us being nice. The weather is gorgeous, our city is gorgeous, and this generally puts is in a pretty good mood, so why not share it with others? Don't be afraid to smile back, you might just enjoy it.

That being said...
Please observe the same cautionary rules that you would in any other big city. Do not stop in the middle of the street to look at anything; if you are looking at a map, step to the side of the road (or pull over if you are driving) and let everyone else pass; hold on to your purse/glasses/camera/etc because some of us are not that nice after all; if a place looks shady, get into a taxi or your car and leave; and please make sure to study a map and the rules of the road before you get behind the wheel.

Obligatory Disclaimer
I am not and have never been a professional tour guide, so these suggestions are based completely on my personal preferences, which may or may not be the same as yours. Please do your own research, make your own decisions and do not get mad at me if you don't enjoy a particular place or get bad service at a certain restaurant. I will try to keep this list current, but the scene changes quickly and museums and parks do close from time to time for renovation, so please always check that a place is open before you make plans to go there. Do not drive without a valid US or International license and some form of insurance. Finally, if you think I've made any sort of a mistake or you have other recommendations for me, please let me know!

I hope you will enjoy your visit to Los Angeles as much as I enjoy living here. If you have any qustions, please feel free to ask, either by leaving a comment on this post or by sending me an email at sweet.persuasion (at) gmail (dot) com. I am always happy to share my love of this city with others.

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